Paradise Regained

We have weekends off and we usually try to use them to explore Gambia, weather permitting. The heavy rain postponed our trip for one day but Saturday was much better. The rainy season has finally started here. Veronika and I headed to Makasutu Cultural Forest, a private ecotourism reserve, it's beauty much extolled by previous volunteers. The name comes from Mandinka: Maka - Islam's holy place Mecca and sutu meaning forest, which translates to "holy forest". It's located in the vicinity of Brikama, one of the largest cities in the country.

The place was founded by two Englishmen who came to Gambia looking for a place to build their eco-retreat in the wilderness and finally decided for 4 acres of land in Makasutu. They went to England for three months to raise more funds and 200 trees were cut down during their absence giving way to further deforestation. They were urged to purchase the entire area (1000 acres) to protect it from ruin. Over the next few year 15 thousand trees were re-planted and more than 70 wells were built. The local people living in the area before it was sold were allowed to stay on the land, meetings were held and it was decided to integrate them into the planned sustainable eco-tourism venture.

We were very lucky because we had the entire reserve almost to ourselves since it's off-season. Firstly we drank coffee with our guide Suleiman in the company of two playful dogs and a curious goat. When the tide was high enough we moved on to the boat trip. It was the most unique experience I've ever had and I will always cherish the memory. All we could hear around us were birds as we were gliding across the smooth surface of the river, admiring the beautiful view of mangroves and palm trees. It was so peaceful that a person would be tempted to settle on the riverbanks and live at this timeless place.

The forest walk through the jungle was also a special experience. Our guide explained the medicinal properties and traditional uses of each plant and tree as we passed them. It was a lot of very interesting information. There is also a maribou or a bush doctor living on a clearing in the forest with his animals. He is 100 years old and the founders asked him to stay on the land after they bought it. In return he does palm reading for the visitors. I gave it a try and if what he says is true, I have a very interesting future ahead of me. 

We concluded a tour with a buffet lunch of traditional Gambian food. It was very tasty and I also got to eat a real African banana for the first time. It was completely different than what we get in Europe. This was the most beautiful place I've ever visited and I'm grateful for the opportunity to visit it.